Feature
Spinning the (small) plates
Small plates allow chefs to showcase their food in a more informal way and gives diners increased choice and flexibility, but how long will this dining trend continue?
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Small plates allow chefs to showcase their food in a more informal way and gives diners increased choice and flexibility, but how long will this dining trend continue?
There’s a reason the landscape artist John Constable hung out in the Dedham Vale: this Suffolk-Essex borderland, just north of Colchester and inland from Manningtree, could not be more painterly if it tried. It’s got it all, as spring slips into summer: the gentle weave of the river Stour, meadow-grazing cattle, distant clusters of houses and handsome churches, lanes frothing with cow parsley. AONB? Obvs.
Ben Crittenden says he never thought a neighbourhood restaurant as small as his could gain so much national attention.
The accomplished team from Perilla deliver their Mediterranean small plates to a new neighbourhood.
Silk handkerchiefs anyone? Small ears? Little tongues? Clattering with vongole, stuffed with fresh spinach and ricotta, or rich with a chill-beating ragù?